Mass Reproductions

Technique and Equipment 

Photographing artwork for reproduction requires either a copy stand or professional lighting equipment.
Techniques used are completely different to other studio-based work so there are key points that need to be
followed to get good quality images.
• Placement of the camera in relation to the artwork
• Placement of lights in relation to the camera and artwork
• Use of the camera to achieve the correct focus and exposure
Symmetrical geometry is the key. Correct placement of lights to the artwork makes all the difference. Lights
should be at a 45degree from the artwork and illumination should be at equal intensity from both light units.
Why does it matter that you follow these instructions to shoot your artwork?
There are inherent compromises at each step that may be perceived as a loss of quality. Some problems that
arise include:
• Colour shifts
• Uneven lighting
• Distortion of the picture plane
• Specular highlights (gleams)
• Improperly exposed film resulting in overly dark or weak images

Lighting Diagram 1: Incorrect lighting: Here the lighting has not been evenly distributed across the surface of

the artwork due to the placement of the light units.

 Lighting Diagram 2: Correct lighting position.

 Equipment Needed to Shoot Artwork to Professional Standards 
• Studio lights (x2) on stands with light trigger and receiver.
• Light meter to measure exposure.
• Easel or alternative hanging method to keep work vertical.
• Camera (digital or film). The camera must be manually operable. If you can’t set the shutter speed and
aperture manually, do not try to use it for this purpose.
• Use a 50mm or small telephoto lens. DO NOT use a wide-angle lens, as it will distort your artwork.
• Tripod
• Tape measure
• Polarising filter for camera (if reflective surfaces involved)
If shooting at home you would need x2 work lights, typically 300watts and use a tungsten balanced film or an
incandescent setting on your camera (white balance).

Experimenting Cameras Types

Iphone Photos:

I do like these as the saturation is very high so you can see the colours well and how they contrast each other. The only problem when taking the photos with an iphone is its very bright and hard to see when taking it on the phone screen because of any light reflecting. Also its very hard to take the shot as you need to be very still incase of shakes which results into a blurred image. Overall i do very much like these results.
For this i did straight on shots, and low angle looking up, i did this to get different angles of the building and also create different shapes of the from the angles i take of the building. The first one was taken at a distance to get the full building in, some i took where i cut out the sides and just got all building to take attention off senary and focus on building. And with shots from the area like the pavement i took it with a birds eye view. As i took these with my iphone the shutter speed, and ios was done automatically. It was easy to work with that as i didn't have to worry or waste time changing settings.
DSLR Camera:

These photos are more sharp and also where much easier to take. They aren't as saturated as the iphone photos however I like this look more as it looks more natural and what you see from when you look at something naturally and I wanted very natural photos. I took it free hand and thought the sharpness of the photos are very impressive.
I took the same angles as the photos above and below as I wanted to mainly focus on the different camera types and which camera looked better. My different camera angles also links with my photography research as like Adrien Endor used many different camera angles which I took on in my photography and Rut luxemburg with the distance of the buildings and also same shots like with pavement photo. The lighter photos of the building had the shutter speed of 1/400th however the area photos like the pavement shot was 1/30th. With the shutter speed being 1/30th it was very slow at taking however I over come that by holding the camera as still as possible to make sure it was blurry. The iso to all photos was 200 for all photo as it was such a bright day with it being natural night on a really sunny day. As the objects was far away I had a large depth of field with it being f/9.

Disposable Cameras:

I did not like the result of these pictures because of the bad quality. the colour and saturation are very poor, the sharpness of the photos are poor and the sun depends on the quality of the photo which was a struggle when trying to take the photos. You also cant zoom which makes it struggle when trying to take the perfect photos. It isn't the look i was going for with a disposable camera.

As it was a disposable camera i didn't change any camera settings however by the look of these photos it was too of a high iso however the shutter speed must over been quite fast as there was no blur in my photos and was able to take them quite quick and neat.

Reproduction techniques

Screen printing 

Equipment 

• squeegee 
• ink
• material to print on
• board

Health And Safety

• keep ink away from eye and mouth and if reaches eye rinse out with cold water and rinse out mouth if enters.

1) get your board and underneath  place any material you wish to print your board onto.  (before hand make sure your image is a high contrast of black and white when sending your photo off to get printed on the board) Duck tape around the sides of the board so no paint leaks out.
2) have a big layer of ink lined at the top of your board but not on your image ready for the squeegee to run down.
3) when row of ink is placed on the top get the squeegee at 40 degree angle and press hard when pulling the squeegee down towards you cover the image on your screen
4) life up the board gently when done and peel back the material from the board you are inking.
5) leave image to dry on drying rack. And wash the board clean



Bondaweb

Equipment

• bondaweb
• iron
• material 
• photograph
• cup of water

Health And Safety 

• Keep iron away from body as extremely hot, if slightly burned run part of your body under cold tap for 10 mins. If worse go to hospital.

1) get an image you wish to transfer using bondawed
2) cut out from the bonda web material the exact shape of your image you which to use 3 separate times so you have three layers
3) place the tree layers on top of the paper or material you which to use.
4) peel back the thin layer from the bondaweb (like double sided sticky tape) and do it to all three layers then place them neatly on  you material with then your image onto facing downwards
5) get an hot iron and then iron it ontop making sure it does burn
6) when everything is stuck down all together turn of the iron.
7) get a cup of water, dip fingers in the after then rub on the upside down image with damp fingers rubbing it away until your image appears how clear you want it.